Travelling in COVID-19 times
Recently governments across Europe produced a list of countries that are able to enter their borders with wishes to travel. Luckily residents of the UK was on Italy’s list with no requirements to quarantine upon arrival.
This is the new way to travel. Government travel guidelines updates are constant and travellers have to check that requirements are met before arriving at the airport. A new form had to be filled if you were flying in from the UK. And everyone’s temperatures were checked at border control.
As soon as Bianca and I passed border control at Brindisi airport, there was so much relief and excitement! In COVID times, making it into a new country with no visa issues or temperature issues feels like an achievement. The flight from Stansted to Brindisi was also only 3 hours worth of anxiety.
Exploring Salento with locals
We were meeting up with Bianca’s friend Francesca and her group of friends in Posto Rosso. Posto Rosso is by the coast and is a one hour drive away from Brindisi airport. We organised a lift with our Airbnb host and his son Andrea (who was visiting from London and speaks English). On the way to our first home in Salento, Andrea and his dad were very lovely to do a pit stop at Sa.Keer and introduced us to our first bite of the famous local sweet pastry called pasticciotto. Here, I also had my first Ginseng, an alternative to the Americano coffee.
Andrea and his dad owns a beautiful guest home minutes away from the water. We were spoiled with sweet figs, tomatoes, pears and many more fruit trees that were waiting to ripen.
With our bikinis on, our first stop to meet Francecsa and her friends was at our doorstep. The water was pristine but you had to go in with rock shoes on. The boys local to the area, Riccardo and Mario were diving for fresh sea urchins with their special knife and sharing the slivers of sea urchin flesh with the rest of the group.
For lunch we drove around the corner to a local shop and ordered a plateful of the fried pizza stuffed with ricotta cheese and other snacks including sandwiches with horse meat which is a local specialty that may sound distasteful to foreigners but can’t be left out of the local food story.
After some time-out at home we were off again to the next beach, a sandy one this time by Isola di Pazze.Â
Our first night in Salento was sealed with a magical sunset and moonrise at a beach bar. But before heading home we stopped by a food truck along the side of the road for a greasy panini with chorizo and the lot.
The next day we went to a big Italian grocer with their own deli and bought speck, fresh mozzarella knots, panini, olives and fresh fruit for our trip to the next beach, Porto Selvaggeo. We also stopped by a shop by the road where I bought my first pair of rock shoes. At the beach I also discovered ice coffee with almond syrup that is sold by locals. It’s my new addiction!
That night we dressed up and drove to a restuarant in Gallipoli for dinner for our 10pm booking. Everyone eats dinner later over here! We ordered many seafood dishes to share around the table including the raw red shrimps that is famous in the region. I’ve never eaten so much raw seafood in my life. They were so fresh, sweet and juicy. We managed to also fit in a seafood pasta dish and dessert. I ordered a divine ricotta and pear cake and finished my night with a limoncello!
The next sandy beach on the list was a short drive away, Baia Verde.Â
We finished the day with a visit to the local fish monger for fresh fish, octopus, mussels and prawns for the wood fired oven back at Francesca’s villa. Side dishes also included store bought marinated seafood salads and bruschetta with fresh tomatoes and basil on frise bread (a hard dough dunked in water at the table).
One of my favourite parts of the Salento trip is probably the day we hired boats and took them out for a ride in Santa Maria Di Leuca (and we all took turns driving the boat and pulling/dropping the anchor). We were blessed with great weather on the day. I don’t know how to swim but with the help of Riccardo and Simone I got the life jacket over me and did some snorkelling until I panicked and had to get back on the boat asap again. But being in the middle of the sea for most of the hours of the day was as healing as being in a forest!
The next day, Bianca and I decided to stay local and do some shopping in a small town called Torre San Giovanni. I just had to take a photo with one of the cactus fruit plant! These plants are everywhere in Salento. Fruits are pink on the outside when they are ripe and you can’t pick them with your bare hands because I made this mistake and got pricked all over (I used my face mask in the end as a glove). But the fruit is so delicious. A must try when you see them on the streets.Â
In the evening we linked up with our previous Airbnb host Andrea and joined his family for dinner at a local restuarant called La Conchiglia back in Leuca.
On the last day with Francesca and her friends, we did our last road trip to Cala dell’Acquaviva and visited Castro for a nice walk and dinner.
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To finish our trip nicely in the South of Italy, Bianca and I stayed a few nights in the beautiful city centre of Lecce, just the two of us and spoiled ourselves with sleep ins and date nights.
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Oh what a special trip it was. I cannot wait to visit again. And I look forward to seeing Francesca and everyone back in London. x